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| Brakes on side hack and motorcycle|
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|How does one go about getting the brake on the sidecar adjusted to where both cycle and car stop evenly? |
I have an adjustment “block” on the car that one screws open are closed and no matter what the setting is the car stops faster that the cycle.
Location: Boise, Idaho
|There are too many variables involved to assure even braking on a sidecar rig. First of all, you have an assymetrical setup. Two wheels on one side and one on the other and maybe three different size wheels. |
Then you probably have three different size (and type) of tires. Add the different loading ratio of the bike and the sidecar at various times plus the difference in the three brake units being used to stop the outfit and you have a pretty wild assortment of factors that are not condusive to "Smooth even braking".
A proportioning valve (which you seem to have) can help some to equalize the stopping of the rig under normal straight line conditions, but road and load conditions change constantly so it's probably prudent to adjust the sidecar end to drag after the bike brake has started to take effect as the outfit is much more controllable that way.
I prefer either no sidecar brake or an independent sidecar brake on my rigs. I've only found the sidecar brake useful off-road. Without the linked brake, it's quite predictable which way the rig will pull every time regardless of load and road. (That's the other time when hackers countersteer).
Before someone mentions it: I know there are some outfits up in the five digit range that have ABS and such that are supposed to be straight stoppers but most of don't have these, do we?
|Sometimes the old methods are the best. |
On our GL-1800 + Escort I chose not to hook up the hack brake into the front bike system as they do with the OEM setup. Instead I used the old method of having Two "Rear" Brake Levers, one for the Bike and the other to it's right for the Hack. To do that I added a rear master-cylinder form a Kaw cruiser to the Hack on a custom mount that includes a rear brake lever from an old style 70's Honda.
By having the two levers side by side I can Roll my foot to use both, either or weight one. That allows me to steer the rig to the right by using the Hack brake, Engine Power or both. I can also better control Left hand turns while braking by not using the Hack brake.
This setup also allows me to better steer the whole rig while stopping on uneven roads etc.
One other big advantage to the seperate Hack Brake setup is that I don't have to mess with those so called "Quick Disconnect" problems that seldom work correctly and require bleeding the lines most of the time after doing an R&R of sidecar for mtce or 2-wheel mode. All I have to do is pull the Electric connections and 4-bolts, the whole brake & lever stays on the sidecar frame.
Location: Middleburg, Pa
|Jerry R wrote: |
>>Sometimes the old methods are the best.<<
I believe that the 'old'methods you described are by far the best for day in and day out operation if on eruns a sidecar brake at all. Second choice IMHO would be to have the hack brake plumbed into the rear brake of the motorcycle and not the front.
|Mahalo all for the input. This rig I have is a Tomco hack, plain Jane type that is connected to this Valkyrie. The brake line is plugged into the rear wheel of the cycle using a proportioning valve with a quick disconnect. I know that it works as I have locked the hack brake, but no matter what setting I do to the p-valve the hack pulls to the right. |
I saw a Harley last week at the Harley dealership that had the two leavers side by side. That sounds like the way to go.
May I ask for a look at this web page and feed back of what you think.
I have looked over Dan's construction of this rig and it is well built.
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