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| Parts ID? 2000 K1200LT w/ Hannigan Astro 2+2|
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|Received zero information when I purchased this rig in fall of last year. Slowly working my way through it fixing faults and trying to ID parts where I might have a chance of getting some additional info... |
Front end had a spacer block under the front fork brace (one of the LONG spacer bolts had snapped off in the fork slider boss - replacement set of bolts on order), assuming it's there to adjust the steering. Spacer raises fork brace about 2.5" and moves it back 0.75"). Successfully removed the remaining bolt stub, and rebuilding fork slider guts while apart (including the lower bushing not shown on BMW's parts fiche!). Looks like there are a couple of folks that make this spacer, hoping someone can ID the source of this one, and maybe provide bolt torque/installation information...
There's a 5.1 gallon fuel cell on the back, with some really interesting hardware-store plumbing parts attached. Thinking this plumbing could/should be cleaned up. But I think by the time it's done, it might be easier to replace with an aluminum fuel cell that could reside underneath the OEM trunk, which I'd like to re-install... Any clues on the source of this fuel cell, or a source for the "trunk compatible" fuel cell I've read about here...
Finally, the bike has what appears to be a non-BMW windshield (Parabellum?) - before I take about 4-inches of height out of it, just curious if anyone recognizes it... 19.75" measured from top of screen to notch cut-out.
I'm also interested in a conversion for a car front tire (to match rear and chair) - but not sure I want to try to round up / install the full EML deal, if even available. Other options?
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
That front wheel is 3.5"x17" which means there really isn't a car tire narrow enough to fit the rim and still fit inside the fender. I'd just shop for a long-wearing bias-belted rear tire in size 140/80-17 and call it good. Something like a Metzeler ME-880 (140/80B17 69V) or a Bridgestone BT-45 (also rated 69V). With the rear tire you get a flatter profile and a nice wide contact patch. I use that size BT-45 on my GS rig (same size wheel) and my contact patch is 85mm wide when the tire is new and justs gets wider as the tire gets more square. As for ditching the BMW wheel and replacing it with an oddball car wheel, like maybe a 15-incher, you'd have to redo the caliper mounts, rotors, fender, axle etc. and all you'd end up with is a tire that wants to hunt instead of run straight and true.
On that steering part, just call Hannigan. It's likely theirs. But I don't think they'll have much to say other than "OK to re-install". The torque on those bolts will depend somewhat on whether they are grade 8.8 (43Nm) or 10.9 (50Nm). The manual doesn't say to use locktite but I know of at least one guy who has discovered one of those bolts missing after a long ride so a little blue threadlocker to keep them from backing out would seem a good idea. Also, the threadlocker acts as a lubricant when you heat it up so you'll be less likely to have another nasty seizing/breaking incident. BTW, when you say it moves the fork brace back .75" -- well not really. The fork brace is attached to the ball joint so your spacer doesn't move the brace--it moves the forks. It moves them forward .75". Semantics, I know.
That fuel cell looks like an ordinary rotomolded "Jaz" tank (LINK ). It's actually pretty nice, but yes the plumbing could be updated. For instance, here's a random pic from the internet of modern plumbing on one of those tanks--
Edited by DRONE 5/30/2015 8:54 PM
|Thanks for the feedback. Semantics, yes. Not sure the front fender will handle a 140 tire, but maybe I can find a 130 rear... (assuming installed in opposite tire rotation direction). |
The spacer bolts were 12.9. And the broken one (long, 70mm) was already broken when I went to remove it - it was apparently glued in place with some flavor of Locktite (I hit it with heat before attempting easy-out removal of the stub, to be safe, but the others came out with just an Allen wrench and no heat). Assuming that the remaining 3 bolts have also been stressed, I'm replacing all 4 with a fresh set of grade 12.9 to be safe. And probably blue Locktite, as a backup.
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Brain fart on the 140. I have a 130 on my GS. Change all the 140's in my post to 130. LOL. But the 85mm contact patch is correct (just measured it.)
As for mounting the tire backwards, not really an issue with the BT-45's and ME-880's since the tread patterns are not blocky and cupping is not an issue. I usually think about backwards mounting with more of a 80/20 or 50/50 tire where you have tread blocks (like a K60 Scout or a Tourance.) I think I'd mount them in the normal rotation direction just for the rain sipes to be oriented correctly.
On the 12.9's, you might want to ask somebody who knows more about nuts and bolts than me, but I've been told that as the tensile strength goes up the bolt becomes more brittle. That's why you use brass screws on your entry door hinges and strike plates. I see a lot of sidecar guys using Grade 5 simply because it will bend before it will break. Might even be the reason that bolt snapped off. But if you are happy with the 12.9's, I still wouldn't go any higher than 50Nm because you have to consider how much torque the fork fittings can handle.
Edited by DRONE 5/31/2015 4:27 PM
|The main center block on your steering modification looks like one we make on our CNC plasma cutter however the rest is not quite the same, so either we did it as a one off, or some one modified our part or some one copied our parts. |
|Thanks, Jay. I know Hannigan supposedly makes a similar spacer, perhaps others as well. Can't be too many ways to design such a thing, so maybe their design is similar because of similar purpose and BMW design constraints. |
I've rebuilt the front fork sliders while things are apart... finding that the bottom bushings in the slider (not shown on any BMW part fiches) were chewed up much worse than the top bushes (both sets replaced, all the same part #). But that got me to thinking... with the spacer block in place, could the fork tubes now be a bit too short, and be pulling out (and back in) to the lower bush as the fork works? (I'll be measuring when I put it back together). For now, just trying to source a 2.75" longer braided brake line to safely accommodate the added spacer height, while working through the rest of the 12K service and other deferred maintenance.
Location: Middleburg, Pa
|The part in question is not from Hannigan. It appears to be homemade. I really do not see anything bad about it. Note that the LT does beg for spring rate up front when a sidecar is attached. If you look you may notice a non stock spring or a spr |
ing spacer in there.
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