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Posted 4/5/2017 5:33 PM (#93038)
Subject: Alignment


Posts: 18
Location: Eagan , Minnesota
Ok guys I had tested my bike a few times with the newly mounted side car . I did not get a front wheel shake like I had read about but it did pull to the right. Jay thought I needed to add more lean out. When I went back and checked everything it seems my toe in was only about 1/4 inch and with a digital level sitting between the handle bars( the most level place I could find) with me sitting on the bike I was 1/2 degree leaned in.

I readjusted toe-in to 3/4 " and lean out to 1 degree with me sitting on the bike

Now I have only been able to ride it a few blocks and now the rig has developed the head shake 1 or 2 times when I first take off and then it goes away. I will have to get it up to highway speed and see if everything works.

I know I can add a dampener to the front forks but would prefer not to. Is this something I have to live with or can I adjust this out ?

I can see that I like this a lot and a properly set up rig with leading link fork will be in my future.

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Posted 4/5/2017 6:19 PM (#93042 - in reply to #93038)
Subject: Re: Alignment


Posts: 53
I'll give you my 2 cents worth based on my limited sidecar alignment experience, but backed by aligning large rotating machinery for many years.

First, you need to be sure the surface that the rig is on is indeed level. Otherwise, the level on the bars is not telling you anything. Get a 6 foot level, and with tape or chalk mark out 3 spots where your wheels rest on the pavement. Move the bike and put the level across those spots. If not level, use shims, like pieces of paneling, metal plate or whatever you need to created 3 tire pads that are dead level. NOW you have a starting point.

Put the bike on those now level pads.

I don't like using handlebars to check lean. I prefer using the rim. If your level is magnetic, all the better.

First, check the hack chassis. The chassis should be level, right to left. In other words perpendicular to direction of travel. You might also check lean out at this time because when you adjust lean out, it will alter the chassis level.

With the chassis level, set the toe-in. I use 3/8" on my Ural. You could start there for your rig.

With toe set, move to lean out. I use 1 degree lean out (to the left). Again, use what is appropriate for your rig.

After leanout is set, recheck hack chassis level and correct if necessary. Changing hack chassis level may alter your leanout so check both and if necessary, over correct one so that when you adjust the other, it brings the first into spec.

Not sure that alignment will fix your head shake issue, but I'm no expert. Not sure if you have a stock 2-wheel rake trail number or you have reduce trail thru LL forks, altered trees or another trail reducing mod. If you have reduced trail, you also have less force trying to keep the wheel pointed straigh ahead. If you are really adverse to a damper, you might consider square section tires as they provide a damping effect via the flat surface creating more friction with the road.

It took me 8 hours to align my rig when I did it the first time. Much of that was learning how much one adjustment affected the others.

You might want to put your rig description in your profile or in a signature block so others will know what you are working with.

Again, I'm a rank amateur at this.

Hope this was helpful.

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Posted 4/6/2017 12:13 PM (#93048 - in reply to #93038)
Subject: Re: Alignment


Posts: 53
One other thought that I gleaned today in a discussion with an old sidecar expert, if your lower front mount is higher than the lower rear mount, when you set lean out, it will alter the toe in. So, keep that in mind. If the bike is pulling right and you add more lean out, you might be also changing the toe and making it pull even more. I know you did not say that it pulled more, but thought it important to mention.

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Posted 4/7/2017 6:50 PM (#93067 - in reply to #93038)
Subject: Re: Alignment

Elite Veteran

Posts: 951
Location: Rapid City, SD
The head shake can be cured by tightening the steering head bearings. Jack the bike up so the front wheel will go lock to lock. Tighten the head bearings so that the forks fall gently to one side. Then check the other side. If it falls slowly to the other side you are done. It is simple and doesn't require the purchase and mounting bracketry for the steering damper.
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Posted 4/14/2017 5:40 AM (#93113 - in reply to #93038)
Subject: Re: Alignment


Posts: 57
Location: Northern Germany
I am someone who likes to have more "toe in". On a rig with m/c wheels and a narrow sidecar like for example a BMW 2valve boxer with an Ural sidecar I give a "toe in" of 1.57 to 1,75 inches (measured over 7 foot).
I set 0° lean out with rider´s weight in the saddle (bike is absolutely upright). This will in some cases cause a head shake at appr. 20 mls/hr that can be cured with a very soft steering damper (say 110 to 170 N damping force)
The rig will pull to the right when accelerating and will pull to the left when closing throttle apruptly.
Snakeoil´s words about how to set up the measurement name exactly how I do it. (just with other figures in toe in and lean out)
In fact, one should should find his own setup where he or she is most comfortable with the rig.
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claude #3563
Posted 4/21/2017 1:01 AM (#93196 - in reply to #93038)
Subject: Re: Alignment


Posts: 2498
Location: Middleburg, Pa
Tighteningthe steering haed beings tighter than you would for a solo rig is a good thing to help curtail a headshake, If you have tapered roller bearing you can go tigher than with ball bearings. Many convert to tapered bearing which is a good thing in
any case.
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