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Dnepr 'replacement' motor
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Posted 6/30/2005 11:22 AM (#8277)
Subject: Dnepr 'replacement' motor


Hello,

I live in the Cleveland, OH area which happens to have a few Dnepr dealers. There is quite a variation in paint quality and motor quality. So, I was considering just buying a kit sans motor and getting my own paint done. FYI, this would be my first bike, so I am not an expert and you may think I am crazy or ignorant.

For the motor, I was curious about what other more modern and reliable motors might work. Any one with experience using a different motor? I am guessing a beemer boxer setup e.g. r100s. Just find a good parts bike on eBay where I could get everything I need or something.

For the paint, I was considering using a place down the street that does bedliner spraying. It would make for a super durable paint (they can do a smooth finish) but not glossy. It seems like it would match the military feel and prevent rust issues and who cares about scratches. Probably black frame with olive body.

I am hoping to keep things under $5000 if I can. I should be able to get the kits sans motor for $3k or less. I am guessing about $500-$1000 on the paint. And finally, I think I could find a decent parts bike for $1500 or less.

Any feedback (even flames) welcome,
-Matt
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Hack'n
Posted 6/30/2005 12:58 PM (#8280 - in reply to #8277)
Subject: RE: Dnepr 'replacement' motor



Expert

Posts: 4833
2000200050010010010025
Location: Boise, Idaho
Reloading the URALs & Dneprs with beemer boxers is quite prevalant since they are BMW clones.
Why not powder coat the beast? The epoxy coating comes in all colors and finishes and is practically bulletproof.
When I start a project such as this, I work out my known numbers to figure the cost, double that figure and add 50% to it. So far it has worked out to be the actual cost within a buck or two when the job was done.

Lonnie
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Uncle Ernie
Posted 6/30/2005 6:18 PM (#8285 - in reply to #8277)
Subject: RE: Dnepr 'replacement' motor


Matt, you bring tears to my eyes. I'm alternating between lauphing and crying. The first thing you need to do is go to a really good book store and get a copy of Murphy's Law. It has been revised several times through the years and some entries have changed. For instance, it used to say, "Take your estimate and double it." Now it says, "Take your estimate and triple it".
If you have plans to beat your bike with a hammer and leave it out in the rain (Sounds like a song Tom Waits and Leonard Cohen collaborated on, doesn't it?), there is a paint by Rhino Liner that will do you proud. If you want period, in the field German army authenticity, just paint it yourself with a paint brush (the only way you're getting a paint job for under $1K, by the way). For a compromise, get it powdercoated.
For the engine, I don't know if you can hook the engine right up to the Dneper trans, but you may want to consider using a Beemer trans as well. You should be able to get a decent rebuildable engine for $1K, plus shipping.
Before beginning, it's a good idea to shop for a caring church group for several reasons; your wife or girlfriend will have support while she decides to kill you or just leave, and you'll have people to hold your hand as you pray for more patience, time, parts sources, and most of all, MONEY.
After you find the church group, don't forget to budget for heated warehouse space.
Lastly, do I/we think you're crazy and/or ignorant? Well of course you are! So is everyone else here. If you have insecurities or any preferrence for sanity in any form, get a 100 gallon tank full of tropical fish instead.
Good luck- keep us posted!
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claude #3563
Posted 6/30/2005 8:27 PM (#8289 - in reply to #8285)
Subject: RE: Dnepr 'replacement' motor



Expert

Posts: 2480
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Location: Middleburg, Pa
Replacing the engine AND transmission do sound liek a good idea. If you are going to do that then maybe replacing the driveline and rear iend would make sense and also give you even more reliability. From ther eyou may want to go to a different front end with possibly better brakes . These bike have been reported to have questionable wheels on the sidecar so that could be replaced too. The sidecar body could be replaced with a ural if the dnper is not in good shape as wel.. No..wait....why not get a bmw DONOR BIKE AND MAKE IT LOOK LIKE AN OLD BIKE...Hmmm.
Hey, there is a yahoo group called 'dnperheads'...it may be a good idea to chat with those guys before jumping into thsi deal too hard.
As far as the fish TANK goes? No way. THAT would be really silly..whew. Gotta be careful who you listen to on these dis-cuss-ion boards ya know.
Keep us posted seriously. Many here, believe it or not, have done projects that raised a fe weyebrows too. Cost?? If you are careful you can pull it off ...if not the figures the other guys have posted could be a reailty.
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normpottruff
Posted 7/5/2005 12:56 AM (#8365 - in reply to #8277)
Subject: RE: Dnepr 'replacement' motor


Good Day,
The early R60 motors are just about a straight bolt in deal. You have to use the R60 clutch disc and make up your own clutch rod. You need to use the Dnepr transmission if you want to make it easy but the Dnepr transmission is pretty solid if you open it up, replace the bearings with north american stuff and put it back together again properly without all the factory filings, etc. Bigger and later engines can be fitted into Dneprs with varying degrees of difficulty but you run the risk of eating final drives with too much power. A chap in the next province popped a Honda 750 engine into his Dnepr and it worked out pretty well. No more reverse though once you lose the Dnepr gear box.
Regards,
Norm
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Jimbosidecar
Posted 8/4/2005 9:27 AM (#9041 - in reply to #8277)
Subject: RE: Dnepr 'replacement' motor



Regular

Posts: 57
2525
Location: Beijing, China
Hi, I've done a dozen or so Chang Jiang engine transplants. If the Dnepr is anything like the Chang, you have to stick with the Russian (or Chinese) transmission because it has 2 shafts instead of BMWs 3 shafts. For the Changs, I machines a spacer plate to fit between the BMW engine and CJ transmission and then welded some metal to the Chinese transmission and tapped the holes to fit the studs from the BMW engine. Lastly on my conversions you have to use the Chinese clutch which means making modifications to the BMW flywheel. Finally, you have to shorten the driveshaft to account for the entra length of the BMW motor. Sounds complicated, but it isn't. E-Mail me if you have any other questions.
Regds,
Jim
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