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California Sidecar Parts
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/12/2011 9:23 PM (#55459)
Subject: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin USA

There are frequently inquiries from people looking for parts for California sidecars.  As we know, the company is not usually very helpful.  As such, I have decided to start my own list of replacement parts.

So far, we have determined that the taillight for the Friendship 3 is from a 1986-91 Accura Integra

The front lens for the same model is from a 1886-1991 Volvo 480ES

The electric lift actuator is a Warner D12-20B5-04, also known as an Thomson Electrak 10 , 1000lb capacity, 4 inch stroke.  This also works on the Friendship 2SE.

The Friendship 2 SE and 3 share a common frame.  Actually two common frames, a large one for the Goldwing and and a small one for everything else.  Dauntless, at www.mysidecar.com sells the pieces to increase the smaller frame to the dimensions needed for the  Goldwing.  Here is a shot of the frame with the extension welded in place.

 

Mine requires a four bolt rim with a 65 mm center hole and 100mm bolt pattern.   Honda Civic-1980 to 1996?  Not sure about the center hole or offset.

I have a Brembo brake caliper, but have not yet come up with a number for the shock, caliper, rotor, or pads.  While mine is apart, I'll try to get numbers for these and for all the bearings.

 Thanks in advance, for any part numbers or interchanges you may have.

Don't limit it to my Friendship 3, but to all Californias.  If anyone has come up with lenses for the old Cal 1, there are a number of people interested.

Check back often, I will edit this post as I get more information.

The seat belts are generic lap belts with soft pliable fabric, a black buckle, and a red button labeled PRESS.  They are much like an old Pontiac or Mustang had.  The ones in my car are labeled, Beams Industries Inc.  OKC USA   Model 1201 

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VLAD
Posted 1/13/2011 9:50 AM (#55468 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: RE: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: DENVER, COLORADO
Thank you. Very needed info.
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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/13/2011 12:43 PM (#55469 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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Mike - timely post! I very recently bought a used Friendship II that I'll be installing on my GL1100. It has the lift actuator, but no switch or switch harness. No biggie - I think I can cobble a switch mechanism up that'll work just fine. It does not have a brake assy tho. Anything you can tell me about retrofitting a brake onto it?

Daryl
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/13/2011 1:21 PM (#55471 - in reply to #55469)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin USA

I've never tried, Daryl.  I can post photos of the hub and brake assembly, and any numbers that I find, but that's all I can do.

Surely someone else here has done it before and will pipe in.

I wired a switch for my old Motorvation.  It was a simple Momentary ON-OFF-ON switch from the parts house.  There are only two wires coming off of the actuator.  Reversing the polarity causes it to move in the opposite direction.

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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/13/2011 5:36 PM (#55481 - in reply to #55471)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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Thanks Mike - yes, it'd be good to see what the brake setup looks like. Nice to know the P/Ns of the various pieces - big thanks for that. I'd imagine those tilt actuators don't last forever. I picked up a large toggle switch yesterday that'll probably work perfectly for controlling the tilt. Is there normally a relay in the circuit?

Daryl
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gnm109
Posted 1/13/2011 7:17 PM (#55484 - in reply to #55481)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Daryl Martel - 1/13/2011 2:36 PM

Thanks Mike - yes, it'd be good to see what the brake setup looks like. Nice to know the P/Ns of the various pieces - big thanks for that. I'd imagine those tilt actuators don't last forever. I picked up a large toggle switch yesterday that'll probably work perfectly for controlling the tilt. Is there normally a relay in the circuit?

Daryl


I don't have an actuator but in general, I would always use relays and fuses whenever there is any current to be carried in the circuit. If the actuator pulls more than 10 amps (a starter pulls 100 or more on a Harley) then the relay will proptect your toggle switch and cause only minimal current to flow through the switch.

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SidecarMike
Posted 1/13/2011 8:16 PM (#55489 - in reply to #55484)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin USA

The manufacturer rates it at 3.8 amps at maximum load, so it probably isn't a problem.  Just the same, a relay never hurts.

http://www.mptdrives.com/ElectrakLinearActuator.pdf

 

 

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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/13/2011 9:54 PM (#55491 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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The switch I have in mind is rated 15 A at 115V - I think a relay may be overkill. I'm having a hard time visualizing how to connect this switch to reverse current to the DC actuator motor tho - anybody got a simple schematic?
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/13/2011 10:06 PM (#55492 - in reply to #55491)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Daryl Martel - 1/13/2011 8:54 PM The switch I have in mind is rated 15 A at 115V - I think a relay may be overkill. I'm having a hard time visualizing how to connect this switch to reverse current to the DC actuator motor tho - anybody got a simple schematic?

I saved this from when I did the Motorvation on my Guzzi.  It is from Ehow.com

*****


•Identify the terminals on your three-way, double-pole switch. There will be two rows of three terminals each. Looking at the switch with the terminals facing towards you, we will refer to the top row of terminals as "1," "2" and "3" and the bottom row as "4," "5" and "6."

•2
Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the end of a wire and solder it to terminal "1." Repeat this process with a second piece of wire, soldering it to terminal "4."

•3
Strip the ends of a short piece of wire and use it to connect terminal "1" to terminal "6." Solder the ends in place.

•4
Strip the ends of a short piece of wire and use it to connect terminal "4" to terminal "3." Solder the wire's ends in place.

•5
Solder a wire to terminal "2" and connect it to the positive terminal on the DC motor. Likewise, solder a wire to terminal "5" and connect it to the negative terminal on the motor.

•6
Connect the wire coming from terminal "1" on the switch to the positive battery terminal. Connect the wire attached to terminal "4" to the negative battery terminal.

•7
Use the three-way switch to select motor operation. The middle position is the "off" position. The two outside switch positions select between "forward" and "reverse" motor operation.


http://www.ehow.com/how_5811592_wire-reversible-dc-electric-motor.html#ixzz1AyVZ83nN

 

***

It worked for me.

Mike

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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/13/2011 10:16 PM (#55493 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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Thnx Mike - I saved that one to Notepad! My switch has only 3 terminal lug contacts... will look for toggle with 6.
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/13/2011 10:20 PM (#55494 - in reply to #55493)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin USA
added a diagram
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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/14/2011 7:00 AM (#55497 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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Saw that - Thnx. saved that pix too.
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coyotex
Posted 1/14/2011 3:00 PM (#55503 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: RE: California Sidecar Parts


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Thanks, guys. Great information here for keeping the old hack on the road. I'll be checking this thread often and printing what I need to keep my Friendship III going. Again, thanks for doing a great service for the whole California Sidecar community.

Bill
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/14/2011 5:18 PM (#55507 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: RE: California Sidecar Parts



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A little more info.

If your F2 or F3 has the Brembo Brake Caliper using a pad with two fixing holes, the part numbers for pads are as follows;

The original Brembo Part number is  07BB1205. This crosses to;

EBC FA 115

SBS 559

Lucas MCB535

Vesrah VD946

or Dennis Kirk #195189





(100_2479.JPG)



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Attachments 100_2479.JPG (694KB - 39 downloads)
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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/14/2011 11:48 PM (#55513 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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Mike - I'm assuming that the brake caliper is hydraulic operated... by a hydraulic line connected with a double banjo fitting to the rear brake cylinder? Same rear brake pedal operates both rear & sidecar brake, correct? I apologize for my ignorance, but no kidding, I've seen so very few sidecars over the years.
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/21/2011 5:47 PM (#55682 - in reply to #55513)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin USA

Daryl Martel - 1/14/2011 10:48 PM Mike - I'm assuming that the brake caliper is hydraulic operated... by a hydraulic line connected with a double banjo fitting to the rear brake cylinder? Same rear brake pedal operates both rear & sidecar brake, correct? I apologize for my ignorance, but no kidding, I've seen so very few sidecars over the years.

Yes, the factory setup calls for the line to be spliced in to the existing brakes with a single pedal.  I'm told a lot of people do it to the front brake, but it is recommended to add it to the rear. 

The banjo bolt required is a 10X1.25 and looks like this;

 

 

This is usually installed by removing the one on the master cylinder or caliper, and replacing it with this one and the banjo.

 I've gotten a few emails from people who say I should not be listing interchanges and such, that I am somehow cheating the company that built the sidecar.  Let me repeat that California Sidecar Company no longer builds sidecars.

  If you call with a sidecar question, the usual response is simply "We no longer do sidecars".  If you are lucky, Scott will answer the phone.  He appears to be the only employee who had anything to do with them.  He will help you get information, but can not get you parts. 

I would not be doing this, nor need to, if the parts were still readily available from the manufacturer.

Mike

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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/21/2011 5:53 PM (#55684 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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Thnx Mike - I'm pretty sure I'll be sourcing a brake for my car. Am upgrading to stainless flex hoses too - my brakes are just too soft. I want to maximize stopping power... gotta really hit the binders hard once in a while here in city traffic! I'd imagine driving without a brake on the sidecar can be a little exciting at times!
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VLAD
Posted 1/21/2011 6:49 PM (#55685 - in reply to #55682)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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On 1500 Goldving you have to connect sidecar brake to the front brake. Rear alredy linked to front left caliper.
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VLAD
Posted 1/21/2011 6:51 PM (#55686 - in reply to #55682)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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SidecarMike - 1/21/2011 5:47 PM

I've gotten a few emails from people who say I should not be listing interchanges and such, that I am somehow cheating the company that built the sidecar.  Let me repeat that California Sidecar Company no longer builds sidecars>



Thanks for listing interchanges. Calls to California end up with no help at all... Do you know where to get rear light(smaller) for older Frendship 3?

Edited by VLAD 1/21/2011 6:54 PM
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/21/2011 7:08 PM (#55687 - in reply to #55686)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin USA

VLAD - 1/21/2011 5:51 PM
SidecarMike - 1/21/2011 5:47 PM I've gotten a few emails from people who say I should not be listing interchanges and such, that I am somehow cheating the company that built the sidecar.  Let me repeat that California Sidecar Company no longer builds sidecars>
Thanks for listing interchanges. Calls to California end up with no help at all... Do you know where to get rear light(smaller) for older Frendship 3?

I haven't seen what they look like.  Can you post a photo?  Maybe we can figure it out.

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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/21/2011 7:12 PM (#55688 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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Mike - re having "gotten a few emails from people who say I should not be listing interchanges and such, that I am somehow cheating the company that built the sidecar." They should mind their own business. Everyone buys motorcycle and automobile parts wherever. Nothing wrong from sourcing parts where you can. Internet & mailorder have changed everything.
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gnm109
Posted 1/21/2011 7:39 PM (#55689 - in reply to #55688)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Location: Sacramento County, California
Daryl Martel - 1/21/2011 4:12 PM

Mike - re having "gotten a few emails from people who say I should not be listing interchanges and such, that I am somehow cheating the company that built the sidecar." They should mind their own business. Everyone buys motorcycle and automobile parts wherever. Nothing wrong from sourcing parts where you can. Internet & mailorder have changed everything.


Absolutely. Any source for parts is perfectly OK, especially since the company is either out of business or has quit building sidecars. In effect, there's no one left to care.

The same thing is going to happen with Harley sidecars in a few years since they quit taking orders for them this year.

Like you say, people should mind their own business.

Edited by gnm109 1/21/2011 7:40 PM
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SidecarMike
Posted 1/21/2011 8:02 PM (#55694 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: RE: California Sidecar Parts



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Thanks guys.  I'm working on photos of the brake and electric lean.  I'll post them in a day or two.
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Hack'n
Posted 1/21/2011 9:35 PM (#55699 - in reply to #55459)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts



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Here's a couple of early FSI taillight pix.
The lenses used to be available at truck stops.

Edited by Hack'n 1/21/2011 9:39 PM




(Image014.jpg)



('83 Aspencade - early FSI 004.jpg)



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Attachments '83 Aspencade - early FSI 004.jpg (118KB - 39 downloads)
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Daryl Martel
Posted 1/21/2011 9:51 PM (#55700 - in reply to #55699)
Subject: Re: California Sidecar Parts


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My Friendship II I just bought.



(DSCF1921.JPG)



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