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Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)
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OldSchool_IsCool
Posted 3/27/2011 9:58 PM (#56987 - in reply to #56980)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Extreme Veteran

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Location: Michigan - Kalamazoo

Another busy weekend!

 

Got the tub home and started preping the frame to receive it.

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The new swingarm bearings are a wee bit thicker than the originals.  I drove the new bearings into place and dry fit the swingarm.  I think I may need to shim the pivot shaft to keep the swingarm from binding on the outter race of the bearing.  What do the pro fabricators think about the clearance shown in the third photo?

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Next, I cut a piece of plywood to act as a subfloor for the interior.  Glued some carpet pad to it for rider comfort, sound deadening and to bury the bolt heads that connect the tub to the frame

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Cut some carpet to fold up into a bowl shape once I shove it into the nose. 

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 Waiting now on a little help from my neighbor to lower the tub onto the frame so that I can get them bolted together and make the final trimmings to the carpet.  Then I'll start in on the bench seat! 

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Lloyd
Posted 3/27/2011 11:12 PM (#56989 - in reply to #56980)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)


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Posts: 161
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Location: Columbiaville, MI.
You are doing a great job, looks great.
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OldSchool_IsCool
Posted 4/15/2011 1:00 PM (#57349 - in reply to #56989)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 422
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Location: Michigan - Kalamazoo
For anyone following this thread, I'm still around and still working on the rig. I've been busy with the tug for the past few weeks, getting 'er buttoned up and ready to mount the hack to it. Here's what I've been (will be*) doing:

Tug is a 1982 Goldwing Interstate (GL1100) bought in November with 49k miles on the clock
- new tires (Dunlop 404s)
- rebuilt rear air shocks (new seals, O-rings, bushings, gaters 20w fork oil)
- cleaned final drive, repacked with Moly-60
- changed final drive oil (75w90)
- rebuilt all three calipers (new seals, new pads)
- new stainless steel braided brake lines all around
- fresh DOT3 brake fluid
- new air filter
- new fuel filter
- new fuel lines
- replaced timing belts (found that the right side was off by a tooth!)
- new radiator hoses, thermostat and radiator cap
- fresh coolant
- oil & filter change
- tappets adjusted
- new spark plugs
* replaced front fork oil (20w again)
- cleaning up any electrical connections I come across
- converted main fuse to blade (found the PO replaced the main with wire! OH NO!!)
- wiring up marker lights
* new cables (push, pull & clutch)
* new mufflers (free HD take-offs!)
- checked swingarm & head bearings
* guna run her around solo for a bit to make sure she's all good and to scuff up those new tires!

I'll be get back to the hack, including updated pics, in a week or so. It still needs:
- mount tub to frame
- install air shock
- install fender
- install LED tail/brake/turn light
- LED strip marker lights (red in the rear, amber on the nose
- hack headlight
- paint or replace wheel rim
- new rubber on rim
- finish carpet
- new bench seat
- build arch behind seat
- canopy
- mount to tug
- learn how to pilot the dang thing!



Edited by OldSchool_IsCool 4/15/2011 3:18 PM
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Pavin
Posted 4/15/2011 7:48 PM (#57353 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)


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Posts: 17
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OldSchool that is way to cool.
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SwampFox
Posted 4/15/2011 9:49 PM (#57358 - in reply to #57349)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



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Posts: 1661
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Location: Summer Grove, LA USA
Coming along nicely. Keep us posted.
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OldSchool_IsCool
Posted 5/1/2011 4:54 PM (#57577 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: RE: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 422
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Location: Michigan - Kalamazoo

OK, I FINALLY got back to working on the hack! Note to any future (re)builders: If you are working on both a bike and a sidecar, FINISH THE SIDECAR FIRST!! Because if you finish the bike first and the weather is good, you'll find it pretty tough to get back to the hack!! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!

OK, so here is what I got done in the last few days:

Got the tub mounted to the frame. I put it on good an tight, using two nuts. The second nut is a nylon lock nut that I used as a jam nut against the first nut. And if that wasn't enough, I drilled through the bolt tail and cotter pinned it. You may notice that between the bottom of the tub (shiny black) and the frame bracket is a material with a wavy pattern.  That is an iron bar, prolly 3 inches wide by a quarter inch thick.  The bar spans between two frame brackets and spreads the load of the tub and cargo across the mounting brackets.  The wavy pattern is rubberized tool drawer liner I wrapped around the bar (2 layers) to act as a vibration dampener between the frame and the tub..

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Next, I mounted the swingarm including the air shock.   At first, I used all grade 8 nuts and bolts.  But when it came time to drill a cotter pin hole, I discovered one of the differences between grade 5 and grade 8.  YOU CAN'T DRILL GRADE 8 with normal backyard mechanic type tools!!  So I pulled it all apart and put it together again, this time with grade 5 hardware, complete with cotter pinning.

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 Next, I mounted the hub and checked the tire clearance.  Since the air shock is so much thicker than the original shock, I was concerned about the tire rubbing against it.  Looks like there is 4 inches clearance between the air shock and where the wheel rim will bolt against the face of the hub.  I checked other high spots and found that the head of the axle is the tightest at 3.5 inches.  Since the axle is original, the thickness of the air shock won't interfere with the wheel/tire.  WHEW!

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I then dry-fit the fender just to make sure that the air shock and hose will fit in there OK.  I didn't take a picture, but no issues there.  I then wheeled the assembly into the sun to see what it looks like mostly together.  I'm pretty pleased with the results so far! 

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Next up will to get the rim painted and a new tire mounted.  Then it's time to get the fender on tight, the tail/brake/turn light mounted and wired, the head light and running lights too.  Then I can go for mounting 'er to the Goldwing GL1100 and practice, practice, practice while I work on the interior and cover!  Oh, and get the windshield polished up too.

 

I'm getting pretty excited to get this thing finished!!

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SideCar
Posted 5/2/2011 8:49 AM (#57587 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Veteran

Posts: 146
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Location: Colleyville, TX
Looking really good and it's good that you're taking the time to think it through and measure, measure, measure. Looks like there is a hole in the fender for a taillight. Where did you source the fender and what kind of taillight are you going to use?
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OldSchool_IsCool
Posted 5/2/2011 7:37 PM (#57607 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 422
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Location: Michigan - Kalamazoo
The fender is original to the car. The back has a 4-inch hole, so a standard round tail/stop/turn should fit nicely. I picked up a water-proof boat trailer LED unit, complete with grommet, at Harbor Freight. It comes with 30-feet of 4-conductor trailer wire, including the flat-four connectors!
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Hack'n
Posted 5/2/2011 7:43 PM (#57608 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Expert

Posts: 4833
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Only 30 feet of wire, Huh? Well you can always add onto it if needed.

Lonnie
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OldSchool_IsCool
Posted 5/9/2011 12:34 PM (#57741 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: RE: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 422
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Location: Michigan - Kalamazoo
Looking for some ideas on other approaches to my proposed solutions below. Also sending out a warning to others concerning cheap wiring kits.

I got around to wiring the brake/tail/turn lamp and the headlight this weekend. When I pulled the HarborFreight wiring kit out of the package, I got a little concerned. The wires in the kit are quite small! I think 20, maybe even 22 gauge.

http://www.harborfreight.com/four-way-trailer-wiring-connection-kit...

I found this wiring calculator for automoitive applications:

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireSizeCalc.html

And using the fact that the headlight is 55 watts (55W/13.8V = 3.9 amps) I see that 20 gauge wire wouldn't carry that amount of current more than 7 feet. I'm needing more like 10 to 12 feet. This kit isn't going to cut it, not for the headlight anyway. The tail/brake/turn lamp is LED, so that isn't a problem.

I'm thinking I need to find a kit with 18 or 16 gauge or maybe a 2-wire connector just for the headlight. I'd rather keep it to a single connector for the hack frame and a second connector for hack accessories. The idea being that if I swap out the tub for a cartop carrier, that the single flat-4 will continue to support required lighting.

Solutions:
- find a flat-4 or flat-5 kit with 18 or 16 gauge wires
- go with a second one or two conductor connector just for the headlight
- go with a lower wattage (LED??) headlamp

Thanks all!

EDIT:

This prolly isn't DOT kosher, but does the hack's headlight need to be up to DOT headlight specs?

http://www.etrailer.com/p-LS-108.html

Edited by OldSchool_IsCool 5/9/2011 1:11 PM
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IndianDrives
Posted 7/4/2011 2:04 AM (#58829 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)


Regular

Posts: 70
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Thanks for the advice of cliches. I'll look a little lace in the round buttons are not only more expensive, require special tools to install.
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OldSchool_IsCool
Posted 7/10/2011 9:18 PM (#58952 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: RE: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 422
100100100100
Location: Michigan - Kalamazoo
A big day today! I'm officially a "Sidecarist in Training!"  No interior yet, so I'll use my tools to provide ballast while I practice.

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I managed to get 'er nice and level too (as seen from the roof of the trunk)
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Much to do yet
- head/tail/turn/brake light hook ups
- carpet
- chair
- windscreen
- canopy arch
- canopy
- swamp cooler

I think I need to beef up the front suspension too. Bottoms pretty easily.  Think I'll put in a spacer on top of the springs and see if that'll help.  I did just replace the fork seals and bushings up there and put in 20w fork oil.  The stock springs are longer then spec, but they are stock from what I can tell. 

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SideCar
Posted 7/11/2011 9:15 AM (#58964 - in reply to #56178)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Veteran

Posts: 146
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Location: Colleyville, TX
Looking good. I see the key/lock in the pick with the level. Does it appear that someone had put a lock on the previous seatback or what is that for?
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OldSchool_IsCool
Posted 7/11/2011 9:35 AM (#58966 - in reply to #58964)
Subject: Re: Getting a Gemini Ready for the Road (fixed fotos)



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 422
100100100100
Location: Michigan - Kalamazoo
SideCar - 7/11/2011 9:15 AM

Looking good. I see the key/lock in the pick with the level. Does it appear that someone had put a lock on the previous seatback or what is that for?


Yes, that tumbler locks the seatback thus securing the "trunk".
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